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How jewellery got personal
Special powers have always been attributed to gems. Early humans believed that the strange bright stones they found in mountains and on river beds, created by mysterious underground forces, were godlike. Countless legends spanning cultures – from Ancient Greek to Aboriginal – share the notion that jewels are of divine or superhuman origin. Amethyst was said to have been created from the tears of the Greek god Dionysus, and onyx from the fingernails of Venus, while for the Aboriginals of southern Australia opals were created when their ancestral God came to Earth in a rainbow.To get more news about name bracelets, you can visit koalaprint.com official website.
Throughout history, the talismanic quality of gems has been significant. Moonstone was believed to be a way of communicating with the gods; jade was (and still is) used to attract good fortune; rubies were said to help in warfare; emeralds to protect travellers, and diamonds were supposed to have powers over love and health – but could also be used as a poison. Pearls were a symbol of power for kings, queens, Maharajas and Chinese Emperors.
The soft power of jewels has been endlessly exploited by diplomats, traders and of course lovers. Roman author and philosopher Pliny the Elder wrote that Cleopatra dissolved a priceless pearl in vinegar to impress Marc Antony. In modern times, De Beers’ famous marketing slogan ‘a diamond is forever’ created the notion that all engagement rings must have a diamond.
The emotional hold that gems have over us is reflected in a current interest in jewellery that is unique and characterful. “In our end of the industry, big sparkly diamonds are not the thing at all,” says Harriet Scott of The Goldsmiths’ Company, an organisation that has supported silversmiths and jewellers for seven centuries, and whose annual Goldsmiths’ Fair takes place this month. “People are looking for something more individual and also affordable.”
Stories of unusual commissions abound, among them a ring created by Vicki Ambery-Smith, inspired by real and imagined architecture. “One of my rings celebrates a 10th wedding anniversary based on places of significance: St Ebbe’s Church where my client was married, her home in Oxford and even her car.” Recent Royal College of Art graduate Gearry Suen turns heirloom pieces into modern designs, using 3D modelling combined with ancient techniques like jade carving. Castro Smith specialises in bespoke signet rings – another item that is enjoying a revival.
All that glitters
Although upcycling and recycling of heirloom pieces is also currently experiencing a surge in popularity, it’s not a new phenomenon. “Recycling gemstones has been going on since Roman times, which is partly why so little jewellery survives outside of royal and museum collections,” says Tricia Topping, Goldsmiths’ Fair ambassador.
A wave of repurposing followed the execution of Charles I when Oliver Cromwell had the crown jewels either destroyed or repurposed, and their gold settings turned into coins stamped with ‘Commonwealth of England’. Refashioning jewels was one of the ways that Cartier built its business in the early 20th Century. And perhaps the most famous – and controversial – example of a refashioned jewel is that of the Koh-i-Noor. One of the largest cut diamonds in the world, it was ceded to Queen Victoria after the British annexation of the Punjab in 1849, and exhibited at the 1851 Great Exhibition. At Prince Albert’s insistence, the stone was recut to make it sparkle more, reducing its size dramatically but answering the tastes of the day.
Often settings are old fashioned and pieces therefore often go unworn. The stones they contain are far more desirable, however. “I want a cocktail ring that can be worn with jeans,” one client told jeweller Maya Selway, who liberated an emerald from an outdated setting.
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